Florida to the Exuma Cays, Cat Island, and Long Island
We crossed the Gulf Stream from Florida to the Bahamas the second time in 2003. We generally followed our 1997 track to the Exumas, and then continued to Long Island and Cat Island. We made this trip on Nalani, our Tayana 37 cutter. We had refrigeration, a sailing vane to help steer, and air conditioning (the few times power was available).
The Exumas had been discovered and were now more popular. This was due to more accurate GPS and the newly published Explorer charts. Marinas were being built, and power boats with less range could now enjoy the territory. The story of this cruise is published as Part Two of White Cays and Blue Seas.
Florida to Long Island and Cat Island
From our marina in Palmetto, Florida we sailed south along the west coast to Key West. From there we crossed the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas. We bypassed Nassau, lying overnight off Rose Island, and made our first landfall in the Exumas at Highborne Cay.
We then revisited Shoud Cay, Little Bell Island, and Big Majors Spot at Staniel Cay. After short stays off the settlements at Blackpoint and Little Farmers Cay, we staged at Big Galliot Cay for an overnight run to Salt Pond, Long Island.
As we approached Long Island, the sun rose, and we photographed our signature icon shown above.
From Salt Pond we followed the shallow channel into Stella Maris, jumping off the bottom at high tide. We had some repairs made and then moved to Conception Island.
We next anchored at New Bight on Cat Island where we visited the Hermitage and toured the area.
The Hermitage on Cat Island
The Hermitage is a scaled down version of a European monastery. It was built by Father Jerome, the architect of St. Paul's and St. Peter's churches in Clarence Town, Long Island.
It sits atop 200' high Mt. Alverna, and an interesting optical illusion makes it appear full sized from afar. But when you hike up the hill and stand next to it, you realize it's a miniature replica.
There are impressive stations of the cross along the steep path that leads up to the building. Father Jerome built the structure himself from native rock.
Father Jerome is buried at the Hermitage where he lived out his final years.
Streams of Fun on Shroud Cay
The streams of Shroud Cay were crystal clear, lined by mangroves, and speckled with baby fish. They twist and turn their way across the cay with numerous offshoots.
Generally shallow, they are fringed with small beachs and occassional deep pools. Some lead to inland ponds. They make wonderful dinghy excursions.
The beach on Exuma Sound is simply spectacular. We swam in the surf, lunched on cucumber and artichoke wraps, and took long beach walks.
Shroud Cay and its streams and beaches are a must see for any Exumas visitor.
Little Bell Island
Our daily adventures involved water sports and hiking. We walked across Little Bell to Bell Rock and scaled the steep cliffs to watch Exuma Sound crash on the rocks below.
It is a sight that takes your breath away; the blends of blues and greens, all in changing textures.
There is great snorkeling and dinghy sailing on the banks around Little Bell Island.
Little Bell Island may be the best and most protected anchorage in the Exumas. We rode out several vicious storms there, in relative comfort and safety.
Sampson Cay
Sampson Cay Marina offers probably the best weather protection in the Exumas.
And we needed it. We tied up inside the marina while a front blew 30 knots out of the west for three days. The harbor outside looked like a washing machine gone awry.
Waves crashed into the breakwaters, but inside the marina it was calm as a lake. We were happy to be there.
They had a terrific restaurant and all the comforts of home: garbage, washing machines, internet service, and even a small grocery store.
Conception Island
Conception Island lies alone in the ocean surrounded by coral reefs, east of Georgetown. It's maybe three miles long, pointed at both ends, and about two miles wide in the middle. Most of its interior is under water at high tide.
To the south is a sheer wall that plummets to ocean depths and attracts divers from around the world. It's a Bahamas national park, and cannot legally be disturbed.
Conception provides a natural habitat for all kinds of birds and sea life. Its inland ponds are vibrant hatcheries. It is the Bahamas at its best.
Baby turtles are a common sight, as is the occassional shark.
Long Island
We saw an ominous black wall approaching our anchorage from the west. When it hit the rain was so thick we could hardly see our bow. The wind blew at over forty knots and lightning streaked from the skies. Nalani bucked and swung on her anchor. The seas built quickly, frothing and spitting wisps of white into the air.
During storms we perfected our rain-catching skills, warily kept an anchor watch, and jumped at the lightning strikes. We filled everything, including our on-deck jugs and buckets. In one storm alone, we collected 36 gallons.
We became acutely aware of our closeness to nature. It made us reflect on the benefits of moving slow, whether walking, biking, or sailing. You notice so much more. Your awareness is inversely proportional to the speed of your travel.
We returned home, pleased with our new boat, and dreaming of more adventures.
We decided to plan a major cruise to the Caribbean. But first, we had to replenish funds again, and we had to upgrade Nalani for even more comfortable sailing.